If your Maytag washer is refusing to spin or drain it can be frustrating and fairly confusing. Of course this usually happens at the most inappropriate time, when your desperate to do a load of laundry.
In this troubleshooting guide on how to fix a Maytag washer that’s not spinning, I will provide you with simple steps so that you can identify the probable cause and take immediate action to fix it.
Our goal is to make sure you can address the problem effectively and get your washer back to normal, before needing to call out a technician.
9 Reasons Your Maytag Washer Isn’t Spinning
If your Maytag washer isn’t spinning, you will likely find that your clothes are still soaking wet at the end of the wash cycle. This can be frustrating, but before you get too excited, let me clarify a few reasons why this might be happening.
1. Faulty Lid Switch Assembly
The lid switch on a washer prevents it from spinning, in the scenario that the lid door is left open. It’s basically a safety feature that can sometimes jam or become defective. If your washer won’t spin, checking this switch should be your first step in diagnosing why your washer won’t spin. To test the lid switch, you will need to carry out these few simple steps:
- Step 1: First, make sure the washer power is turned off.
- Step 2: Locate the lid switch. The lid switch on a Maytag washing machine is typically found underneath the lid of the machine, towards the right side . If you don’t know where it is, consult the user manual for your machine, or watch the short video clip below.
- Step 3: Perform a visual inspection looking for any sign of wear, damage or burn marks.
- Step 4: Next close and open the lid repeatedly, whilst listening for a clicking sound. The clicking sound is the noise the switch makes as it is activated. If you cannot hear the click, the lid switch is most likely faulty and need replacing.
- Step 5: Using a multimeter, check the lid switch for continuity. To check continuity, first turn off the power to the circuit, then set your multimeter to continuity or resistance mode, touch one probe to each point in the circuit you’re testing, and if the multimeter beeps or shows a reading close to zero, there’s continuity, meaning the circuit is closed and electricity can flow
- Step 6: If the switch does not have continuity, replace the switch.
- Step 7: If there is continuity at the switch it’s working fine. Move on to the next diagnostic step.
2. Faulty Door Latch
On front loading washers you will need to check the door latch. It essentially performs the same function as the lid switch on a top loading washer. If the door latch fails, the washer’s main control board will be reading the signal, or perhaps the absence of a signal, as a warning. The control board’s response will be to prevent your washer from spinning and in some cases, it may also prevent the drain pump from draining the machine. Here’s how to check if this is the issue.
- Step 1: Make sure the washer is turned off.
- Step 2: Locate the door latch, which on a front-loading Maytag washer is typically located on the inside of the door frame, where the door meets the washer when it is closed, and is visible when you open the washer’s door. (consult the user manual if you don’t know where it is) or you can watch the instructional video below for a step-by-step guide.
- Step 3: If the latch is mechanical, observe how it functions when you close and operate the washer. Listen for a clicking sound to confirm it is working. If the latch is electronic, use a multimeter to check for continuity.
- Step 4: If the switch is not functioning as it should or it does not have continuity, replace it.
- Step 5: If the latch is functioning as it should, move on to the next diagnostic step.
3. Faulty Clutch
The washing machine’s clutch connects the tub to the transmission system within the washer, which then works to spin the drum. If the clutch is faulty, the washing machine won’t be able to spin freely. Like any clutch mechanism, they are susceptible to seize, crack or jam over time due to general wear. To check that the drum clutch is working, perform this simple test:
- Step 1: Turn your washing machine on to any cycle.
- Step 2: Observe how the tub spins. If it spins intermittently, erratically or not at all, the clutch is most likely faulty, and will need replacing.
- Step 3: If the tub turns as it should, the clutch is not the problem. Move on to the next step and check the drive motor.
4. Failed Drive Motor
The drive motor powers the rotational movement of the washer drum, and if it fails the drum won’t spin, or it may spin but only intermittently. There are a few additional tell-tale signs to look out for:
- If you hear a humming noise coming from inside the machine or if the washer is louder than normal when running, this could be an indication that the drive motor is failing.
- You may also see that the washer is filling and emptying normally but not spinning during the cycle.
- If the motor has worn brushes, you may see sparks coming from the underside of the washer.
You can test the drive motor by checking for power using a multimeter. Unplug the washing machine, disconnect the drive motor’s wiring harness, and set your multimeter to test resistance (Ohms). Then, touch the multimeter’s probes to the motor’s terminals. If the multimeter reads a resistance value within the motor’s specifications (found in the washer’s service manual), the motor is fine, but if it shows an open circuit (infinite resistance) or a significantly different resistance, the motor could be defective and will need replacing.
If the motor has power and you don’t hear any loud or unusual sounds while the machine is running, move on to the next diagnostic step.
5. Damaged Drive Belt
The drive belt is an important component in your washer’s spin cycle, it transmits the drive motor power that turns the tub during a wash cycle. Over time, the rubber belt can stretch, distort or break, leading to spinning problems. To check the drive belt follow these steps:
- Step 1: Turn the washing machine off.
- Step 2: Take the side and top panels off the washer to expose the drive belt.
- Step 3: Check the belt for cracks, breakage, or other signs of wear and tear. Make sure the belt is looped and aligned around the pulleys correctly.
- Step 4: Replace the belt if it shows signs of wear, cracking or stretching.
- Step 5: If the belt looks to be in good shape, continue to the next component check – the drive pulley.
6. Worn Drive Pulley
The drive pulley is part of the power transmission system, that sits between the drive motor and the belt. Problems with the pulley will often result in a noticeable change of movement in the washer tub. It can prevent the tub from spinning or causing erratic movement.
If the drive belt is intact and the drive motor is working and showing continuity, then you will need to check the pulley, making sure it is free moving and that the drive belt is aligned properly.
- Step 1: Turn the washer off.
- Step 2: Remove the top and side panels if you put them back on after checking the drive belt.
- Step 3: Locate the drive pulley and look for signs of wear and tear or seizing. Check that the drive belt is aligned around the pulley correctly.
- Step 4: Replace the pulley if you see any visible signs of damage. Also reattach the drive belt if it isn’t properly aligned.
- Step 5: If the drive pulley looks to be in good shape, move on to the next step to check that you are loading the machine correctly.
7. Wash Load Could Be Too Heavy
Every washing machine has a minimum and maximum load capacity. There are two main reasons why manufacturers place a weight limit on their washer products. First, to allow the tub to spin adequately, during the wash cycle and during the drain, and second, to prevent any mechanical damage occurring to due excessive weight.
If you overload the tub with too many clothes, they will act like a sponge and soak up large amounts of water, adding to the overall excess weight within the tub. It is the combined weight of the clothes and the water, that can lead to problems spinning, or worse, damage to the drive system.
If you think you might be overloading your washer, check the owner’s manual for capacity recommendations and make sure you adhere to these limits with every load.
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Maytag Washer Won’t Spin or Drain
Sometimes, a washer not spinning or draining can be the result of something more complex associated with the main control board or programming. In some cases, a reset can resolve the problem and the appliance continues to perform normally. But in other cases, you may need to call in an appliance technician to inspect the machine and potentially replace the control board. Let me explain each situation for you.
8. Program Failure
Sometimes a front-load washer can get a program glitch and shut down or freeze, in the same way, our home computers can. This could potentially be the reason that your washer isn’t spinning properly. The resolution to this problem is as simple as resetting the wash cycle. To reset your Maytag washer:
- Step 1: Turn the washing machine off.
- Step 2: Unplug the machine from the outlet for a few minutes.
- Step 3: Plug the washer back in.
- Step 4: Restart the machine.
9. Faulty Control Board
The control board is a section of the washer that operates the various machine cycles. It may have knobs or buttons, or it could be digital with touchscreen controls. Problems associated with the control board are obviously complex to diagnose. It could be as simple as a button or LCD screen needing replacing, or it could be related to the wiring or circuitry of the board. It is possible to inspect and replace the control board if you follow the basic steps below, but I would recommend calling out a professional if you have got to this step in the troubleshooting process.
- Step 1: Turn the power off to the washing machine.
- Step 2: Consult the user manual to find out how to locate and expose the control board.
- Step 3: Look for burned-out components on the control board.
- Step 4: Replace any burned-out components or call a professional to make the repairs for you.
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Problems Specific To Top or Front Loading Machines
All the causes of a washer not spinning or draining are common in both top and front-loading washing machines. Regardless of whether the clothes are added from the top or the front, most washing machines operate in much the same way, which means you should be able to troubleshoot improper spinning issues following the advice above.
Verdict: Maytag Washer is Not Spinning
A Maytag washer not spinning properly is a common issue that often is easy to diagnose and fix. In order for the machine to spin correctly, the door latch must hold the door closed tightly, the lid switch must engage, the drive belt and pulley must not be worn or damaged, and the pump filter and drain hose must be free of obstruction so dirty water can drain freely from the machine.
If you check all these components and have found no issues, the problem could be with the drive control board or a failed program. If you aren’t comfortable with making a diagnosis or conducting the repairs yourself, don’t hesitate to call in a professional to ensure your machine is fixed properly. After all, it’s extremely frustrating and inconvenient when your washing machine fails to spin, and your clothes are sopping wet at the end of a wash cycle.
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FAQs Maytag Washer Problems Spinning
Finding Solution To Maytag Error Codes
If your Maytag washer is showing an error code, you can find the meaning of the code by visiting the Maytag website here.
Maytag Washer won’t Finish Spin Cycle
The most common reason a washer won’t finish a spin cycle is that the load is unbalanced. Open the lid and redistribute the clothes before restarting the washer.
Maytag Washer won’t Turn On
A washer that won’t turn on may not have power running to it, or the main control board or user interface might be faulty. Check the power supply, and then call a repair person to further troubleshoot the issue.
Maytag Washer Not Spinning Or Draining
A Maytag washer that doesn’t spin or drain properly can be off-balance, have a blockage in the drain system, or have worn or damaged components such as the drive belt or drive pulley. Other parts that could be faulty include the main control board, clutch, door latch, or lid switch.
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Andy has over 8 years of experience working on residential household appliances, performing diagnostics, and repairs across most major brands. He graduated from the Denver Institute of Technology, is NASTeC certified, and has worked for Mr. Appliance. Andy has contributed to features on major publications including Better Home & Gardens, Family Handyman, and Yahoo.com.